Christmas Time on the Danube - Part 10: Riding One Country at a Time

Over the past several weeks, we've tagged along with Sharon Miceli on her AMAWaterways River Cruise to Europe's Christmas Markets. Today, after a brief introduction from Sharon, we meet her traveling companion and our guest blogger, Marlene Callahan, as she recounts her cycling adventure during the cruise. Sharon...

Thanks, Simon. As you know, not every cruise is a bikini cruise. After all, we were going to explore the Christmas Markets along the Danube River in December. You’ll never believe how many people asked me, "But won’t it be cold?" a common reaction since most people equate cruising with sun-drenched pool decks, pina coladas and reggae bands.

Following the well-worn tourist trails around the globe is perfectly fine for most of us. Calling on museums and churches is expected but there are other reasons to travel, other activities to try.

Marlene Callahan recounts her river cruise experience and takes us down a different beaten path. Ride on Marlene...

Marlene Callahan in front of AMAlyra in Vienna (aka Wien)

Thanks, Sharon. Having been diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis in Dec 2007, I never imagined I would just be returning from a trip of a lifetime. I have been fighting a battle for the last 3 years to stay healthy so I can live with this illness they call MS. Cycling has become my line of attack against this crippling disease. It keeps my legs strong and my outlook positive. 

In November Sharon, one of my long time friends, gave me a call and asked if I would like to come along on a Christmas Time Cruise aboard AMAWaterways AMAlyra. Without even knowing where I was going, I said yes. Then she told me the ship has bikes onboard and asked If I wanted to ride in Austria. “Heck Yah!” I said. I knew it was winter but I still wanted to breathe the fresh air of Germany and Austria and ride a bike if I had the chance.

The bikes stored aboard Amalyra's Sun Deck

We joined the ship in Germany. It was exciting to see the world and enjoy Christmas on the Danube. When we visited Regensburg, Germany for a walking tour I noticed a whole bunch of people riding bikes along the river’s edge and into the town. It was their usual mode of transportation even in winter. Despite 4 inches of snow on the ground, which is bitterly cold for a girl from south Florida, I got excited and wanted to ride. 

Detailed photos of the bikes available onboard Amalyra

As I went into town I saw lots of bikes. I watched as several locals rode up the cobblestone streets. They rode like experts in the snow. Their bikes had wide tires, padded seats, and they were wearing their best winter jackets and hats.
As the AMAlyra sailed into Vienna, Austria, I awoke to the most beautiful scenery from the large balcony window next to my bed. I jumped up and said, "This is the day I ride!" I opted out of going on the Salzburg excursion that many of the passengers were doing and stayed aboard.

A map of the bike path was in German, but easy to decipher

When I asked Tania, our receptionist, if I could take a bike out she was shocked. "Oh Marlene, are you sure?" She was worried about my safety but I assured her I was an expert cyclist from the USA.

That's me peddling.... err, skidding... away from the ship.

So I put on my Livestrong thermal cycling jersey and pants, then my Team ZMotion windbreaker and said "let's ride!" One of the crew, Lucien, brought down a bike from the locker on the sundeck, which we had nicknamed the snowdeck. I signed the ship's waver, adjusted the seat and reviewed the gears and brakes. Lucien helped me get my balance in the snow and with a little push I was off and riding. "I'm in Vienna, cycling, you can't beat this!" I thought to myself.

The bike path was well-marked, even in the snow

I skidded my way for the first mile, shaking in my snow boots as I rode. I wasn't used to using foot brakes but I managed quite well. The bike was great; it had both a foot and hand braking system and a little rack on the back. Each bike comes with a lock, the tires are wide which helps with "skiing" down the bike path and the gears are easy to adjust.

An e-bike charging station

The bike path was right around the block from where the ship was docked and most of it was salted. It was separated from the road and the signs clearly marked where to cycle and where not to cycle. I rode into downtown Vienna, as the American's call it, Wien in Austria. There were bike paths along the main road into town and I looped around and saw a few beautiful churches, steeples and Christmas Markets along the way.

A bike rental shop and cafe

As I rode, I came upon a 47km mountain bike path and map that looked like a great trail to ride but it was full of snow and ice so I ended up just riding back home to the ship. Interestingly there were several cafe's along the route where you could re-charge e-bikes and re-charge yourself with a cool drink while you waited.

A path along the river offered great cycling and scenic views

I can see how in the summer months the passengers of the AMAlyra would be fighting over who gets a bike and rushing to ride the 47 km path in Vienna along the Danube canal. This was the most beautiful and breathtaking scenery that I’ve ever seen. Sure is different from riding in South Florida.

The salted bike path took me over a metal bridge, reminding me of something out of a Robert Frost poem

The Captain and the Cruise Director told me they have 40 bikes onboard and that anyone who would like to bring their own bike could keep it on the sundeck for the duration of the trip. 

My cruise ended in Budapest, Hungary. I was unable to ride again; Budapest was cold and very icy. I opted to take our morning tour to the "Buda" side of town. As we drove around my eyes were looking for bike paths and winter cyclists. I saw that downtown "Buda" was cyclist friendly; all roads have designated bike paths and lots of signage.

I am now dreaming of my next cruise with AMAWaterways and I have visions of me biking in Budapest this summer. Cruising makes it so easy to see the many countries that you dreamed of visiting. Having the bikes onboard the ships is an added bonus for the guests to view the beautiful countryside of Europe.

Cycling has become the thing I need to do to keep me positive, so from now on, I will be riding one country at a time to stay strong!

Ride on Marlene, indeed! There's something for everyone aboard an AMAWaterways river cruise. Thanks to both Marlene and Sharon!


Sharon and Marlene traveled as guests of AMAWaterways on a travel agent river cruise familiarization trip in December, 2010, cruising the Amalyra along the Danube river.